Student blogger Will Putzier (Certificate '20 + Johns
Hopkin SAIS MA '21) writes about local spots and activities in Nanjing.
As one of China’s four ancient capitals, most recently
during the Republican era in the early 20th century, Nanjing is a
city with a rich and varied history. Accordingly, there are many important
sights in the city that students can explore during their time here. Nanjing
also offers a plethora of delicious eats for students to take advantage of
throughout the year.
Near Campus
The Hopkins-Nanjing Center is located in the downtown area
of Nanjing, meaning students have a rich variety of places to check out near
the HNC.
Some students brew their own coffee or buy from the
student-run coffee shop in the lounge, while others venture to one of several nearby
coffee shops on a daily basis. Price, quality, and distance from campus vary,
but most of the coffee is quite satisfying. A coffee shop called Jianshe opened
this summer around the corner from the HNC. It is a cozy spot for homework (or
Instagramming your cute study setup). Across the street is a tiny spot called
Ivory Fruit Coffee that offers high quality coffee, if you feel like having
pour-over to start your day. If you want solid, cheap coffee there are
additional options less than a 10-minute walk from campus. They offer lattes
for CNY15 (barely over $2 at the current exchange rate), an insanely cheap
price compared to the United States!
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| I'll start studying right after I post this to my story... |
For breakfast options besides the cafeteria, students often grab baozi or head to one of several bing stands scattered around the area.
By this point in the year, most students have found their
go-to restaurants. When I am looking for a quick meal, I frequent a Lanzhou
noodle place or a Korean stone bowl restaurant down the street from the HNC.
Often a group of friends and I will go to a Taiwanese rice restaurant and chow
down on dishes such as yuxiang eggplant and mapo tofu. A bit further away is
Hankou road, with plentiful options including biangbiang noodles, braised
chicken rice, spicy numbing stir-fry (malaxiangguo), and bubble tea.
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| Malaxiangguo near Hankou road |
In the evening students can also enjoy a drink at one of several bars nearby. On Thursdays some students participate in a weekly trivia night, but they always make sure they get to bed at a reasonable hour!
Beyond food and drinks, there are a few historic places of
interest near campus. I found this out when Professor Joe Renouard led a
walking tour of the Yihelu district one Friday afternoon. The area was
developed during the Republican era and contains the former US embassy and former
residence of George Marshall (of the Marshall plan), among others. Massive
sycamore trees flank the streets here and elsewhere around Nanjing. These trees
are a defining attribute of the city and its past, having been maintained for
many decades.
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| Students explore the Yihelu district near campus. |
Farther away
Although Nanjing is a medium-sized city by Chinese standards
(around 8 million people), the city is easily accessible by the subway station
literally around the corner from the HNC.
My first view upon leaving the train at Nanjing Station was
the beautiful Xuanwu lake. Beyond nice views of the city, the area also
includes sections of Nanjing’s Ming-era walls and tree-lined walking paths.
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| First view of Nanjing |
Xinjiekou might be considered the city center and is often the destination for students who want to go shopping. It is less than a 20-minute subway ride from the HNC, but walking is also possible. Among a huge variety of stores in the area, Xinjiekou has the largest Muji I have ever seen, complete with its own café and restaurant.
Nanjing’s historical sites abound, including the Ming-era
walls, Confucius Temple area, and others. Purple Mountain contains the tomb of
the Hongwu emperor, the founder of the Ming dynasty. Sun Yat-sen, China’s first
president following the Qing dynasty, was also laid to rest on the Purple
Mountain. The mountain may be more of a large hill, but it is definitely advisable
to bring comfortable shoes. After climbing up and down the 392 steps to the
main hall, I treated myself with ice cream at the adjacent KFC. Purple Mountain
is supposed to be beautiful when the leaves change, so I will be sure to make
another trip this autumn!
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| A view from the Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum |
Nanjing is also famous for a dark chapter in China’s history. The Memorial Hall of the Victims in Nanjing Massacre by Japanese Invaders extensively documents the Nanjing Massacre of 1937. The memorial and museum is somber, but highly informative and well worth a visit.
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| The Zifeng tower on a sunny autumn day |
Other attractions I have yet to explore in Nanjing include the Confucius temple area and the Nanjing Museum. Luckily I still have plenty of time for a visit!
Written by Will Putzier (Certificate '20 + Johns Hopkins
SAIS MA '21)
